174: Chapter 174 Exploring the Ancient City (Part 1)

At noon, they had an authentic naxi ethnic group lunch at the Lijiang Banyan Tree. There was delicious Naxi roast fish, soft and smooth chickpea jelly, and fragrant Lijiang baba. Liu Yifei ate with her cheeks puffed out like a little squirrel, repeatedly saying how delicious it was.

After the meal, the two returned to their room to rest for over an hour, avoiding the afternoon sun. Once the weather had cooled slightly, Chen Mo took Liu Yifei's hand and boarded a Tianxing customized business vehicle, heading toward Lijiang Old Town.

Ten minutes later, the business vehicle slowly came to a stop near the entrance of the old town. The two got out and were immediately stunned by the sight before them.

In January 2015, Lijiang Old Town had not yet been overtaken by the commercial hustle and bustle of later years; it still retained its most original naxi ethnic group charm. The Great Water Wheel at the entrance turned slowly, its wooden spokes covered with the marks of time. Beside it hung strings of colorful prayer flags that swayed gently in the wind, carrying the blessings of the naxi ethnic group.

“Wow, is this the entrance to Lijiang Old Town? It’s even more beautiful than what I saw online!”

Liu Yifei let go of Chen Mo's hand, walked over to the Great Water Wheel, reached out to touch the wooden spokes, and said softly:

“Look at this waterwheel; it turns so slowly and feels so ancient. And these colored flags, what are they?”

Chen Mo walked to her side, followed her gaze, and explained with a smile:

“These are called prayer flags, a characteristic of the naxi ethnic group. They are printed with scriptures of blessing. Hanging them here both offers prayers and decorates the old town.”

“The old town here still retains much of its old appearance, all in the most authentic Naxi style. Let’s stroll slowly; I’ll tell you about the local customs and people.”

“That sounds great!”

Liu Yifei nodded repeatedly, pulling on Chen Mo's arm as she impatiently led the way into the old town.

“I’ve been wanting to hear the stories here for a long time. And the naxi ethnic group you just mentioned—how do they usually live?”

The two walked side by side into the old town, their feet on the uneven red breccia stone road. This is the most characteristic pavement of Lijiang Old Town; polished by years of use, it has become smooth and warm with a distinct texture. It is said that this type of stone is unique to the area, being non-slip and wear-resistant. For hundreds of years, it has carried the daily life of the old town.

On both sides of the street were well-arranged naxi ethnic group residences, all made of earth and wood structures with gray tiles and white walls. The roofs were stepped, and strings of dried corn and chili peppers hung under the eaves, alongside dongba script decorations characteristic of the naxi ethnic group, all brimming with the atmosphere of daily life.

“Look at these houses; they are all traditional naxi ethnic group residences. Most follow the layout of ‘three courtyards and a screen wall’ or ‘four courtyards and five skylights.’”

Chen Mo pointed at the nearby houses and introduced them with a smile:

“These houses are warm in winter and cool in summer, making them perfectly suited for the climate of Lijiang. The walls are built of earth and stone, tapering upward, and the roofs are covered with small gray tiles. They are both sturdy and beautiful, integrating the architectural skills of the Han, Tibetan, and Bai ethnic groups. They are the crystallization of the naxi ethnic group people's wisdom.”

Liu Yifei followed along, listening intently and nodding from time to time, her eyes curiously taking in everything around her.

“I see. No wonder they look so special; they’re completely different from the houses we saw in Shanghai.”

“Look, what is written in the characters hanging at that family's door?”

“To me, it looks like a drawing.”

“That is dongba script, a writing system unique to the naxi ethnic group. It is also the only pictographic script in the world that is still in use today.”

Chen Mo said with a smile:

“You think it looks like a drawing, but each character actually has a corresponding meaning. For example, the one that looks like a mountain means ‘mountain,’ and the one that looks like water means ‘water.’ The Dongba culture of the naxi ethnic group has a very long history. In addition to the script, there are also Dongba paintings and Dongba dances. We might even see someone performing later.”

“That’s amazing!”

Liu Yifei’s eyes lit up. Looking at the dongba script at the door, she said softly:

“I didn’t expect there to be such a special script. It would be great if I could learn a few characters.”

“By the way, I heard that Lijiang Old Town doesn't have a regular road network. Is that true?”

“That’s correct.”

Chen Mo nodded, taking her hand as they walked forward along the winding alleys, and continued:

“The old town was built in the late Song and early Yuan dynasties. Its layout is ‘three mountains as screens, one plain connected.’ Three rivers flow through the city, with running water by every household. The streets are all winding with not a single straight road, and there are no imposing city walls. It is said that the Mu Clan Tusi of that time didn't want to be restricted by walls, nor did they want to block the view of the Jade Dragon Snow Mountain, so no city walls were built. This is also a major feature of Lijiang Old Town.”

As the two walked and chatted, the stone paths beneath them grew narrower, and the surrounding houses became denser. Occasionally, they could see locals wearing traditional naxi ethnic group clothing.

The women wore long linen skirts with wide waists and large sleeves, colorful belts tied around their waists, and embroidered headpieces.

The men wore loose linen tops and trousers, with small knives hanging at their waists and simple smiles on their faces. When they encountered tourists, they would smile and say, ‘Ni jue gu lu, zi mi a li li.’

“What does ‘Ni jue gu lu, zi mi a li li’ mean?”

Liu Yifei asked curiously.

“It means ‘Hello, I wish you all the best and may everything go smoothly!’”

Chen Mo said with a smile:

“The naxi ethnic group are naturally simple and kind, very warm and hospitable. Whether it's a local or a tourist, they will greet you with a smile. This is one of the local customs of Lijiang.”

“Furthermore, the naxi ethnic group is a people who advocate for nature. They revere the mountains and waters and respect nature, which is why Lijiang's environment is so good, with beautiful scenery and fresh air.”

As he spoke, Chen Mo also replied:

“Gu lu, zi mi!”

As they were speaking, a crisp sound of flowing water reached them. Liu Yifei followed the sound and saw a clear stream next to the alley. The water was melted ice and snow from the Jade Dragon Snow Mountain, crystal clear to the point that the pebbles at the bottom were visible. The stream flowed along the ditches on both sides of the street, and every household had a small bridge at their door. It was truly a scene of ‘every house having flowing water and every house having weeping willows,’ very elegant.

“Look at this stream water, it’s so clear!”

Liu Yifei squatted down and reached out to gently touch the water. She smiled at Chen Mo and said:

“This must be the ‘three rivers through the city’ you mentioned, right?”

“The stream flowing around the houses is so charming. No wonder they say Lijiang Old Town is ‘water-centric’; it truly lives up to its reputation.”

“Yes, this stream water is not only beautiful but also very useful.”

Chen Mo squatted beside her and said softly:

“The naxi ethnic group use this water for laundry, cooking, and irrigation; it is the lifeblood of the old town.”

“Moreover, there are many bridges in the old town, with an average of 93 per square kilometer. There are all kinds of stone and wooden bridges, the most famous being the Big Stone Bridge. When we go to Sifang Street later, we’ll see it. That bridge was built by the Mu Clan Tusi during the Ming Dynasty, and you can even see the reflection of the Jade Dragon Snow Mountain in the stream under the bridge.”

Liu Yifei was delighted. She quickly stood up, pulled Chen Mo forward, and said as they walked:

“Hurry, take me to see the Big Stone Bridge! I want to see the reflection of the Jade Dragon Snow Mountain!”

“By the way, is the Sifang Street you mentioned a snack street?”

“I want to eat Flower Cake and Cross-bridge Rice Noodles.”

Chen Mo was amused by her eager look. She didn't just love beautiful scenery; she was also a little foodie who loved good food.

“Don't worry, don't worry!”

“We’ll walk slowly. Sifang Street is just ahead. It not only has snacks but is also the center of the old town. It is said that the Mu Clan Tusi of the Ming Dynasty built it in the shape of his own seal. It was the most important hub on the Ancient Tea Horse Road. Since the Ming and Qing dynasties, merchants from all over have gathered here, and the cultures of various ethnic groups have converged, making it extremely lively.”